Travel Is Fatal.

Many of my friends are out traveling right now.  I've got some in Edinburgh, Scotland, some traveling from Amsterdam to Paris.  I would by lying if I said I was not a tad bit jealous.  But hey, I've stood outside temples thousands of years old in Sicily, been inside a 5,000 year old passage tomb in Ireland and stepped foot over the doorway of stave churches in Norway over 1000 years old.  Those are a few of the incredible things I've done.  And my traveling days are far from over.  Next on my list?  Pretty sure it will be Paris.

I've been pretty fortunate to travel as much as I have.  Below is a favorite quote of mine from Mark Twain, and it is absolutely true.  Whether you are traveling to a "Westernized" country or not, even going to somewhere that speaks a similar language to yours the customs are different and you are out of your element, rushing headlong into the unknown.  I found this to be absolutely true when I spent a month in Ireland.  That is what shakes the rust off.  Getting out of your "little corner of the world".

And I'm not talking about staying in a fancy hotel in the touristy areas.  I'm talking about living where the people live, getting to know the culture, how they live day in and day out.  I have found that is where the magic of travel is.  Nothing wrong with luxury, but you miss out on the things that make a country or a culture most spectacular by staying on the beaten path.  You find hidden little gems you would never have known about if you are willing to venture even a few blocks outside the tourist traps.

So I would encourage everyone to get out, travel.  In a time where our leaders are working very hard to instill fear of others, go experience a country or a culture not your own. Travel IS fatal to prejudice because you get to see first hand the beauty and the cruelty of the world and you are often relying on the hospitality of complete strangers.  The times I took those risks turned out to be the best and most life-changing experiences.  I've made some life-long friends and connections from these experiences and I would be a much duller person without them.  So don't buy into the fear, get out and see the world.

Where is Elk Rock?

Last Thursday, the 18th of June, I decided to go on a little local adventure.  I knew about Elk Rock Island, and knew it was in the river South of Milwaukie but had no idea how to get there.  I looked it up, figured out how to access it and then called to see if my 12-year old nephew wanted to go with me, so he agreed and I went and picked him up.  The island is accessed via a short trail at 19th & Sparrow, just off River Road in Milwaukie.

In the winter, when the water is higher, it is only accessible via the river because a slough fills in the land bridge.  But now, because the water level is so low, it was easy access.  Apparently, based on the parks & rec site, the island "represents part of an ancient volcano that erupted about 40 million years ago. The large, jagged rocks (Waverly Heights basalt) found throughout the island were formed by lava flows, and may be the oldest exposed rock in the Portland area. The island contains seven distinct habitats, including wetlands, forests, and grasslands. Across the river, there are high cliffs which are Elk Rock proper. A Native American legend holds that this was a good spot to stampede a herd of elk over the cliff. The island gets its name from being near Elk Rock." Also I apparently said "basalt" wrong because my nephew corrected me and then proceeded to launch into a monologue about the different kinds of rocks there are.  

The trail from Elk Rock.

The trail from Elk Rock.

Elk Rock from the trail.

Elk Rock from the trail.

It was a pretty cool place to visit.  There are so many places around the Portland area I have never even been to.  The island is criss-crossed with little trails, and takes maybe an hour or so to walk around.  There are beachy spots you can spend the afternoon if you so like, and there were a few people out doing that.  We decided to call it a day and go do some more urban exploring in Milwaukie.  I made a deal with my nephew I would take him to a game store to trade in some games. That was his reward for agreeing to go with me to the island. We also decided to go visit the chocolatier in downtown Milwaukie, Enchante.  And, if you have not been, go!  The store is gorgeous.  Not only do they have chocolate, but old-fashioned candy and Paris inspired decor and vintage treasures.  

Store interior (not my photo, credit to www.gallivant.com)

Store interior (not my photo, credit to www.gallivant.com)

After that we visited the old soda fountain/antique store in Milwaukie, Main Street Collectors Mall.  It is rumored JFK (I think) visited and sat right at the counter.  Connor loves going in there to check out the knives and cool stuff they have.  And we made it to the game store and then rounded out our day at Cha Cha Cha, eating chips and salsa and quesadillas and tacos out in the sun.  For some reason, I love Mexican food on a hot, summer day.  And this was definitely that!  Mission accomplished for the day.  Where am I off to next?  Boise, Idaho for the 4th and maybe just maybe sneaking off to Montana to see my Dad.  We'll see where my travels take me.  

 

10 Reasons I Will Go Back to Ireland

Sitting in Costello's Travel Caffe, I thought it only seemed right to compose a travel-themed blog.  Seriously.  Why have I never been here before?  I have lived in Portland a long time.  This is almost  inexcusable.  But, I found it now.  Wrap-around canvas prints of photos from around the world grace the walls, there is a "travel special" running via tvs around the space and delicious coffee and food.  I even scored a gluten-free donut!  Trust me, that is not easy to find.  And it was tasty.  So I digress.  Back to why I am going to Ireland, sooner than later, ranked in no particular order:

1. Love. I think about Ireland.  A lot.  I am always trying to figure out when I can go back.  I would probably book a flight in a month or two and just go.  But, that might not be the best financial choice.  Or maybe it would be!  Who knows.  When you love something, or usually someone, you want to see them again and will do whatever it takes.  This is how I feel about Ireland.  I have never felt so connected to another place, not even Portland.  I must go back, and sooner, rather than later.

2. Vikings. Not the real Vikings, but the tv show "Vikings" on the History Channel.  After watching the most recent episode, I decided to find out where it was filmed, because it did not look like Norway to me.  And the majority of the outdoor scenes are filmed in the Wicklow Mountains.  Of course they are!  Somehow it escaped me this is an Irish show.

3. Weather.  I experienced every kind of weather you could imagine.  We had more than one windstorm, lots of rain, sun, sleet, snow and hail.  And I still loved it.  It simply invigorated me and I loved being out in it.  And it was January!  If I loved it this much then, how much more would I love it in the Spring or the Fall?  I intend to find out.

4. Music.  What can I say about this?  The music is just as you expect it to be, wild and raucous.  I found one of my most favorite bands ever, the Eskies, at the Shannonside Winter Music Festival in Sixmiledbridge and Bunratty Castle. That was an unexpected treat, and the Eskies now have a lifelong fan.  When I go back to Ireland, I intend to take in more trad sessions and find out where the Eskies are playing, because I am going.  

5. People. The people in Ireland are wonderful.  First, the accents.  I never tire of them.  Full of joy, used to working hard, very wonderful people.  Every where I went, even though technically I was alone, I felt made welcome by shopkeepers, farmers, servers, bartenders....let alone my host Steph and her friends.  They were so hospitable.  I cannot wait to go back and make some more friends.

6. Scenery. Ireland has it all.  Lakes, the sea, beaches, mountains, rolling hills, rocks and so much more.  If you like to fish, go to Ireland.  If you like to golf, go to Ireland.  If you like to hike, go to Ireland.  I think you get the picture.  I intend to go back and explore Connemara and the various peninsulas, Dingle being first and foremost.  And I intend to drive and explore as much of the Wild Atlantic Way as I can.  I picked it up here and there, but I intend to drive all of it. 

7. Alcohol. I definitely did not drink enough whiskey or beer.  I was driving so much, and I wanted to keep my wits about me.  This next trip I intend to settle into some villages for the night where I can walk to a pub and still make my way home without a car.  Be a little more adventurous at night. 

8. Castles. Almost every single castle across the whole of Ireland was closed for the season, except for Bunratty.  I am grateful I was able to spend an afternoon exploring it and an evening at the Medieval Banquet, but there are so many more I did not get into!  Dunluce Castle in the north, Trim Castle, Slane Castle...I don't know, you get the picture.  I want to go when things are open, not closed.

9. Giant's Causeway. I am still pissed I did not get to see the Causeway.  And the Antrim Coast.  The Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, one of the harbors where they filmed "Game of Thrones".  The weather was scary windy.  But, this time, I will go up North via Donegal, rather heading up the Eastern side of Ireland.

10. Daylight. If I would have had even 2 more hours of daylight, I could have got around a lot more.  So, I intend to return when I at least might have a full 12 hours of daylight.  I knew going in January I would only get about 8 hours a day, but I intend to go back when I can explore to my heart's content and still have light well into the evening.

 

 

The Tree of Life

For Valentine's Day,  I took myself to Joshua Tree National Park.  From where I am, in La Quinta, it took about an hour and a half to drive to the main park entrance just outside Yucca City.  I wanted the whole experience, so I started at the main visitor center.  I knew there was an entrance into the park not for from where I was, but I decided I would drive through the whole thing, if I could.  And do at least one manageable hike.

What I didn't know is that due to President's Day, entry to the park was free.  Bonus!  Immediately the beauty of the rocks pushing up through the ground and the miles of Joshua trees marching on struck me with their otherworldly beauty, and I had to pull over for photos.  I saw faces staring back at me, could feel the oldness of the tumbled rocks, as if some giant had been clearing the land and dumped the rocks where they lay. I could feel the ancient pull of this primal landscape, a complete stark contrast to the lush green of Ireland.  I felt a little like I was on Mars.  Blue sky, orange rocks, baked earth.  Lizards skittering this way and that to get out of my path.

 

The park straddles the Mojave and Colorado deserts, and you can see the difference once you cross that invisible line.  The Joshua trees virtually disappear, and the mountains rise up, little more than jumbled piles of rocks.  The sky was doing incredible things, and it seemed every time I drove around the next bend, it was a new breathtaking view.  No wonder it took me six hours to drive up and around through the park.

 

I did stop and do the mile loop to Barker Dam.  Smartly, I decided not to wear or bring sunscreen.  But, that's okay, because I'll be more tan than anyone in Oregon for the entire rest of the year.  Apparently, they tried cattle ranching in this area at one point.  Though what in God's name would possess anyone to do that, I cannot rightly say.  It was fun scrambling around and through boulders back to the dam.  Even got a chance to view some ancient petroglyphs, though they had unfortunately been outlined in paint.  And, some idiot decided to carve he and his girlfriend's initials on one of the trees skin, scratching the bark away to get at the tender pulp inside.  If there would have been a ranger at the trail head, I would have turned him in.  That's not okay.

 

I enjoyed the spots in the park most where the people were not, obviously.  Every now and then, it would be absolutely still and quiet, with only the hot, desert breeze to keep me company.  I took some time to walk out in the desert, find a sloped, flat rock to sit on and take my shoes and socks off.  I had this great desire to feel the heat of the earth beneath my bare feet, the sand, the rocks and to imagine this place a thousand years ago, and maybe even thousands of thousands before that.  


It was a beautiful day.  I am so grateful to be having all these varied experiences.  I find as I get out in nature more, it feeds me and I crave it.  Nature keeps me grounded, and absorbs the restless energy I feel, helps me create.  Quiets my mind when I get tired of the ceaseless buzz of incessant noise from people and machines.  

I wound my way down through the mountain passes and across the valley towards the I10 and La Quinta.  I cannot imagine having crossed this space of land in a wagon, on horseback, or even on foot.  They say to take a gallon of water per person, and it's true!  You need it! I nearly consumed 2 litres myself mostly just driving around the park.  The desert is a very unforgiving harsh land, but still beautiful for all that.  


I cannot wait to get home and start to do more exploring in my own backyard.  And though I appreciate the desert's beauty and warmth, I miss the trees and the mountains, the ocean, the rivers.  I now turn my attention to the many textures and layers of the landscape at home, and the exploring I can do when I get back.  It seems this is not the end of my adventuring, but barely the beginning.   

The Road to Idyllwild

Yesterday I ventured to Idyllwild.  A small mountain town, elevation over 5000 feet, in the San Bernardino mountains.  State Highway 74 is no joke!  Several miles of hairpin curves and deadly drop-offs had me more than a little nervous.  I don't do the best with heights so I was going extremely slow the way there and back.  

 

I came across Lake Hemet, unexpectedly.  And roused a Great Blue Heron from its' resting place under the trees.  As it took flight, I stood, breathless, simply watching the great beating wings cutting through the air.  It was just me, no one else around.  I love the beauty, the majesty, of everything in nature.

 

And I figured something out.  I love exploring.  I love being outside.  When I don't get to do those things, I burn up inside with a restless energy.  Now that I've opened that door, I can hardly close it.  I'm not about eating out, going shopping or to the next coolest place anymore, though those things are fine and fun at times.  But me, I need to get out and see the world.  On my Twitter bio I stated "wanderlust grips me hard".  And it does.  I can no longer be bound or constricted by my own old way of life.  Ireland completely changed that for me. 


I loved Idyllwild, a quirky little mountain town.  I found the Funky Bizarre, which is run by a character named Peter.  He greeted me at the door, gave me a 45-second show, dressed in tails and a bowler hat.  I ended up with a Doobie Brother's Greatest Hits album for $2, some "Naughty Pussy" soap, and a candle he hand makes as an Idyllwild souvenir.  I don't know if I'll ever make it back to that little town in the mountains, but I'm so glad I went.  I bought fresh black tea and mukluk slipper socks from Merkaba's, met a woman in a tiny shop full of custom clothing and jewelry, and rounded out the day with lunch from Oma's, a European restaurant.  All in all, a beautiful day.


I don't know how much more I'll get out here.  We'll see.  Joshua Tree National Park is so close, I would love to get out there early tomorrow or Sunday and at least drive through part of it, and see what I can see.  The California desert does have a certain beauty, but it's not for me.  I can't imagine I would ever vacation here again, unless I was desperate for some sun.  

Salvation at the Mountain.

I stood at the edge of the Salton Sea yesterday.  Usually, I want to get in the water.  This time, I wanted to get away from it. I had heard the sea was toxic, and the shoreline littered with the bones and skeletons of dead fish.  It's all true.  The setting is still beautiful, but beauty tinged with the pervasive feeling of death and decay.  I felt sad for the birds that lined the shore, pecking at the dead carcasses of the fish.  I walked across the beach made up of millions of fish bones. Crunch, crunch, grinding them back into dust.  

 

Before I stopped off at this Godforsaken place, I went to Salvation Mountain.  It is one of the strangest places I have been on my travels.  In fact, the whole area feels like the apocalypse already happened there, a place where the people have been left behind to scratch and claw some kind of living out of the dusty surroundings.  I felt like I stepped back in time to the 60's or 70's, when Jesus love was rampant and the societal norms cast off in favor of something more personal and mystical.

 

Tents and camper vans lined the plain surrounding the mountain.  How this ended up in the middle of a desert, I'm not sure.  But the work itself is genius.  I could feel the desperate pleas from a man for Jesus to come, and imagine the thousands of hours this must have taken, laboring in the hot sun.  It seemed to me a kind of penance, a life-long labour of love.  

I followed the yellow brick road to the top, to the cross.  Hot, in the desert sun. I had a few moments where I thought I might fall off the mountain.  But, I figured even if I did fall, it wasn't that far.  I'm still thinking about what I felt there and I'm having a hard time putting it into words.  

The site is a photographers dream.  Vibrant with color, nooks and crannies, hidden, secret rooms.  All comprised of adobe clay.  An organic, living, breathing organism that keeps growing.  I noticed the blue angels.  In one of my favorite "rooms", and then again on a glassed in ceiling of the other structure.  These reminded me of my mom.  

 

I am glad I took the time to go.  I don't know if I will ever make it back.  It's not a part of the country I want to see over and over again.  Maybe never again.  I don't know if it hearkens to a past that won't let go, or a future I don't want to think about.  But the sense of decay was palpable.  Abandoned buildings, graffitied and half torn down.  Weary, tired people and no green.  Just desert dust.  I don't even know what you would do out in an area like that.  I was grateful to get back to the mountains and greener spaces of La Quinta.  I stopped in at the Oasis Date Gardens and had a date/cactus shake on the way home.  Sooooo goooood!!!!


Today I'm going to go picking oranges and grapefruits and lemons.  It seems so strange to be able to walk up and pick them ripe off a tree.  Maybe visit the pool, who knows.  Yesterday I did get hit on by an older guy at the pool, asking if I wanted him to bring me a drink because he was refreshing his.  I said thank you, and politely declined. But, hey, I'll take my compliments where I can get them.

Not Quite Home.

I'm in San Bruno, CA.  Sitting outside of the motel.  It is nice to be outside without several layers of clothing on, and no jacket!  I am relishing the lovely morning.  

Today Ben and I are going to Monterey.  I have one more night until I fly out tomorrow evening for Palm Springs, so of course, more adventuring is in order.  I was very disappointed because I wanted to sleep the day away, but, I was awake at 6am.  So, down I came for some coffee and early morning writing.  

I don't feel sad to be back in the States.  Although, spending the afternoon at the airport in Boston made me kind of sad.  I don't like that airport, it was a long travel day, and I had to see Patriots crap EVERYWHERE! Gross. I was up for about 24 hours yesterday, though I did nap for a few hours on the way from Boston to SFO.  I need to figure out how to shorten the journey to Shannon for the next trip.  Two seven hour flights with an almost four-hour layover in between is not that much fun.  But, it's over, and I did it.

There's so much depth to what I experienced in Ireland, I don't think I even know all of it yet.  But, my soul has found its' home.  That doesn't mean I'm moving there, but it's the place I love.  And so I carry all the experiences deep within the marrow of my very being, and it's changed me.  Only for the better, as travel will, if you let it.  

Tomorrow when I go to Palm Springs I'm going to see what interesting things I can find there.  I can spend 2 1/2 weeks just kicking it at the house, or, I can do more solo adventuring.  Which do you think I'll choose?  I met a life coach on the flight from Shannon to Boston yesterday, and he was very impressed at all the things I was interested in.  He told me I should take a bow, for being so clear about the things I love and also for taking a solo journey for a month.  I guess I don't think of it as brave. I think of it as my soul calling to me and I listened.  My desire to go overcame my fear, and in the end, I was rewarded with a rich repository of experience I will draw on for the rest of my life!  For now, I am thankful to be in warmer weather.

 

 

I Found Yeats Country!

Yesterday (February 2nd), I had a late start.  And a bit of a hangover from being up so late to watch the Super Bowl via Skype with the family.  I had a cup of tea with Steph and Rob, and we talked about what I was going to do in the afternoon.  They both recommended I go to the Burren, a National Park very close, and so off I went.  

I made a stop at Coole Park, which was the estate of Lady Gregory and her husband.  This little guy jumped up right in my car to get a scrap of food.  

 

Frequent visitors to Coole Park were W.B. Yeats, George Bernard Shaw, Jack B. Yeats, and the list goes on and on.  There is an autograph tree in the walled gardens, where they all carved their initials.  A beautiful, peaceful park, it is now maintained by the Irish State.  I could feel the inspiration as I walked around the grounds, through the woods and over to the lake.

 

I left Coole Park, went down the road and found Thoor Ballylee, Yeats' castle home.  It is not open for viewing, but, I wandered around and took photos and got a feel for the place.  And I had the place all to myself.  The great thing about this time of year is there is no one anywhere, except for the big sites like the Cliffs of Moher.  The downside is everything is closed, as far as many of the smaller visitor centers and shops.  There is a lot of information online about these places, and I need to do more research (www.ladygregoryyeatstrail.com).  It is so fascinating to trod in the trails the feet of these great authors have walked.  

 

After I left Thor Ballylee, I continued on to the Burren via Kinvarra.  Steph told me to take the road through the heart of the Burren, and so I did.  I found a castle or two, and ended up at the most delightful chocolatier, the Burren Chocolatier (http://www.hazelmountainchocolates.com).  Turns out one of the chocolatiers is from the States, and used to live in Corvallis.  Small world.  I chatted with Dara, he was in making chocolates, and another random lady from Dublin who died over their hot chocolate.  I didn't end up having any hot chocolate, but I did take a slice of strawberry sponge cake home with me for later, and some chocolate bars.

I made for the Burren Perfumery next.  It's another kind of out-of-the-way place.  I got there and they were open, but just for a few more minutes.  I bought a few items and talked with the shopkeeper there, and then headed out again.  I am delighted because I can order items online from them (http://www.burrenperfumery.com). By this time it was getting dark.  I didn't want to be stuck out on some road in the middle of the Burren too long after the sun set.

 

I made my way back home via Ennis.  Lately all roads seem to lead to there or from there.  On my way back, though it was well past sunset, I stopped at the Dysert O'Dea castle.  It's pretty cool and a little scary to be walking through a country lane in the near dark to a deserted castle.  But, walk I did.  Of course I could not get in, but, did manage to get some photos.  Apparently there is an archaeological trail you can walk around this castle and see a bunch of different monuments.  That will have to be another time. Too much to do and see all in one shot.


The Burren is beautiful.  Just when I think I can't see another different kind of landscape, Ireland gives me something new to look at.  Incredible.  I am never disappointed.


Yesterday was another wonderful day here.  And now, I'm on my last day.  I woke up with snow this morning, so decided to wait a few hours to go out anywhere.  I'm going into Ennis to do a last bit of shopping, and then driving up to Moran's Oyster Cottage for lunch.  And then it's time for packing and away I go back to the States tomorrow.  



I Don't Wanna Go...

I was ready for bed, ready to go to sleep and forget about coming back to the States on Wednesday.  I'm not coming home, because I'm in SF for two nights and then off I go to Palm Springs for dog-sitting.  Yes, I do lead a glamorous life.  But for a moment, or maybe several moments, I have been depressed about leaving.  So, I poured myself a Guinness, warmed up my cottage pie and decided to suck it up and upload photos and blog.

The reality is I still have 3 full days here! So I can get a lot done.  There is a drive I have been wanting to take, down to Loop Head.  So, tomorrow, it's on.  What's another 5-6 hours on the road at this point?  Besides, I like driving.  The beauty of the scenery and what's around the next bend keeps me going.

I spent the morning at home, doing the same stuff I'm doing now.  I decided to go back to Adare, a village I passed through yesterday that I wanted to spend more time in.  I visited an old monastery or friary or something like that.  The point is, I was all by myself in these two churches and took photos.  It was really beautiful, being in the Holy Trinity Abbey in the afternoon sun.  Some of the stained glass windows are incredible works of art.  I think these buildings have been around since the 1200s, but I'm not sure.  I'll have to consult the history book on Adare I bought from the church.

 

I also bought a CD from Holy Trinity Abbey, the second church I went to.  You just put money in a little slot below the visitor's book.  So I signed my name, and said thanks for keeping the place open .  There was a "Dove Cot" back behind the Abbey, where they used to keep pigeons for eating.  Just quite amazing to see all these buildings and historical, monastic sites.  I always love it.  Most of the time I end up in places on accident, and visit the tourist center after I've seen everything they recommend.  A lot of the shops were closed, unfortunately, but that's okay.  

 

I risked life and limb to get some shots of the castle, which is also closed at this time of the year.  I walked on a very narrow shoulder on a bridge, with nothing separating me from the crazy Irish drivers.  I think I now can qualify as a crazy Irish driver too!  I stopped in for a late lunch at the Blue Door Restaurant.  Good, solid food, but nothing exceptional.  And i think that was the problem with today.  It was a decent, good day out.  But I did not feel exhilarated.  Just sad at the prospect of leaving.

 

Ah well.  All good things must come to an end always.  But the ending is another beginning, so everything really is cycle. Nothing ever ends or begins, just transitions into something else.  And I'll be back to Ireland, no doubt about that.  There is a lot of the country I did not see, on account of weather and time.  But, I don't want to discover everything on my first trip.  And I found Adare Manor!  Ben and I used to live in Adare Manor, and they favorited one of my tweets a long time ago.  I asked the security guard if I could go in to the grounds and take a photo, but he said no, because construction was in progress.  I almost backed into the cab behind me but made it safely out.  Sometimes it's hard being me.


Since I finished binge watching all of season 5 of Downton Abbey, I'll have to come up with something else to do tonight after I'm done here.  Maybe Netflix...whatever it is, I decided I'm getting up early and going to Loop Head.  It's official.  I might even set my alarm to make sure.  The sun doesn't rise until about 8:30, but the sky gets light around 7am and I could get on the road.  I guess we'll find out tomorrow what happens.

It Is As Beautiful As They Say It Is.

It's Saturday morning here, 11am.  I'm still at home, on the daybed, uploading photos and blogging, waiting for my camera battery to charge.  Note to self - for the next trip, bring an extra one.  

Yesterday I did make it to Dingle, out on the Dingle Peninsula.  Another place I want to come back to when the weather is better.  I'm pretty sure I would come back in May if I can swing it.  I've been able to see and do a lot of things, but I could see and do more with better weather and more daylight.  

The peninsula is as beautiful as I imagined, maybe even more so.  The road to Dingle cuts through the mountains, gorgeous views around every bend.  I might have stopped every 10 minutes on the way back to take a photo.  The mountains sweep up from the ground, barely dusted with a light frosting of snow.  I stopped to take one photo and looked back as a curtain of rain descended over the mountain.  The mist trailed the cloud like the hem of a garment, moving gently across the valley to the next set of mountains.  It happened in about 2 minutes.  

 

You think the weather in Oregon is crazy, it is mild compared to Ireland.  Right now I'm looking at sunshine.  But we have already had several small snow flurries.  I think today I'm going to go back and explore Adare village, just West of Limerick.  About a 45-minute drive.  I don't think I'm up for traipsing around much further than that.  I was on the road for probably 6-7 hours yesterday, but it was worth it!  I'm so glad I went.   I took a turn to get out to a beach on the way back from Dingle, and ended up finding this little cove instead. And I caught the last of the light.  Just beautiful and serene, nobody out there but me.  I find that happening often, I'll have a lot of places to myself, just poking around and taking pictures.  Following my nose to the next adventure.

 

My trip is winding down, but I'm not thinking about it, because I know I'll be back.  Ireland is that place for me.  The place I'll want to come back to and explore year after year.  If you like golf, come to Ireland.  If you like water, come to Ireland.  If you like beer and whiskey, come to Ireland. If you like music, come to Ireland.  If you like horses, come to Ireland.  If you want to fish, come to Ireland.  If you like history, come to Ireland.  The list goes on and on and on.  The country is magical and beautiful, and now it owns a piece of my heart.  Of all my ancestry, I resonate most with this land, at least of the places I have been.

Oh!  Speaking of horses, on my way to Dingle yesterday I saw two "trotters" and their jockeys practicing in a village not too far from where I am staying, Killkullen, I think.  I wished I could have got my camera out in time, they were beautiful!  Brown and white, like a paint pony.  Manes and tails flowing in the wind as they trotted around the bend and out of sight.  I love seeing unexpected things like that, and all the animals, everywhere.  I suppose that's what I don't like about the Eastern side of Ireland.  You lose the wide open spaces because there are more cities and it's more populated.  

While I was in Dingle, I stopped in for a bowl of seafood chowder and some tea at Murphy's B&B. Delish!  Then, as I was walking through town I saw Murphy's ice cream shop and stopped in.  I had a tiny cup of Sea Salt Ice Cream, made from the salt extracted out of Dingle Bay, and Butterscotch ice cream.  Though it was cold, something seemed so right about eating ice cream at the beach.  I wandered up the hill, looking for the Dingle Bookshop.  I found it, decided to buy a book from a local author, and the shopkeeper found an autographed copy for me.  Another tiny treasure.


I have loved every minute of this adventure, and I still have four full days left, so I'll see what I can make of it.  My host, Steph, has now turned into a friend.  And I would highly recommend anyone coming to stay at this cottage, or with her in the room she rents in her house.  She is simply an amazing human being.  I was on my way out yesterday, and she asked me in for tea and we talked for 45 minutes.  She kept the fire going all day for me so the cottage was warm when I got home. She is just wonderful.  I will miss her too, and the cats.  Everything.  

I know this experience has deepened and broadened my soul in ways I cannot imagine and will not know right away.  Traveling always changes me, expands my view of the world, helps me grow with the challenges it presents.  I have done a lot, and on my own.  And for that, I am quite proud of myself.  Let's see what adventures I can find today.

The Long Road Home

It's about 9:30 am on Friday morning.  After all my traveling yesterday just too tired to do a blog last night. So I drank Guinness and binge-watched Downton Abbey instead.  I was driving through snow all day yesterday.  Either in it, behind it or ahead of it, no matter.  The important thing is when I got home to the cottage, the weather was bright, calm, and not a snowflake in sight.  And I made it before dark.

Yesterday morning, after a full Irish breakfast,  I took off from Slane.  The snow was coming down.  I drove up to Slane Hill, took one pic, and headed back down.  I did not want to get stuck on a hill.  After I got out of Slane, the snow settled down.  I worked my way over the Kells, stopping to take photos of St. Patrick's church somewhere between Kells and Navan.  And I inadvertently stumbled upon the Donaghmore Round Tower, just off the N51, before I ended up at St. Patrick's church. Once I got to Kells, it was beautiful!  Sunshine and blue skies.  From the town center, after I drove past the monastic site, I spied a tower up on a hill I had to get to.  It's called the "Spire of Lloyd".  The snow was pristine, just a few people leaving once I got there.  

 

What I came upon up there also was a "Pauper's Cemetery".  From what I understand, countless poor Irish were buried there en masse as a result of the famine.  It breaks my heart to know that people were simply dying of hunger.  And those that could've helped decided not to because the Irish were getting a lesson from God through the calamity.  How tired I get of hearing that.  It was a beautiful and somber place, to think I stood upon the bones of those who died before, and no names were even known.  I think the famine caused some of my ancestors to leave and come to the Americas, or Canada, if my research is right.  I'll have to study the famine more, but it seems it too could have been avoided if the few would have taken care of the many.  


After leaving Kells, I took myself on a wild goose chase through the Boyne Valley to find the Loughcrew Cairns, a megalithic burial site.  I never did find them.  I took a wrong turn somewhere and ended up by a lake.  It was probably good I didn't find them, because in the snow I may not have made it up.  I eventually saw a sign for them later and was so tempted to go back. But then it was afternoon and I still had go cross-country to get to the West.  

I made it home as the sun was dipping down over the mountains.  I stopped and took a shot of Lough Dergh in the distance, just too beautiful to ignore.  My mini road trip is over, and what a trip it was!  I stood on the edge of the country and felt the ferocious storm off the Northern Coast.  Drove backroads in snow for miles.  Saw a copy of the book of Kells, visited copious historical sites.  I loved County Meath.


But, there is something special about this place in County Clare.  The mountains, the terraced hills, the way the land folds gently into itself.  The lakes, and the people.  I have fallen in love with this place.  It will be hard to leave.  Today, the weather is good.  And so, I'm going off to the Dingle Peninsula.  I will have to save the Ring of Kerry for another trip, when the weather is better.  Off to more adventuring!

The Day That Wasn't.

**This was written last night, the 28th**

I am disappointed to say I never made it to Giant's Causeway, but I did find Dunluce Castle, on my host's recommendation at the guest house last night  I thought I was going to get blown off the cliff! Me and the Micra, over we go.  Didn't happen.  I actually made it all the way to the Visitor Centre, paid the admission fee, and then found out it would be a 25-minute walk to the Causeway.  Not happening in this wind.  I did find out "Dracula Untold" was filmed at the Causeway. I guess I can go online and look at pictures.  

 

Sometimes you just gotta heed the signs, and today was one of those days.  The weather was crazy!  You could see the storm blowing in across the Atlantic.  Snow, wind, rain, sleet, breaks of sun...you name it.  I have never been out in wind like that.  I thought I lost my hat (found it later in my hood), almost lost my phone and I thought I lost my lens cap for my camera, which was somehow in the leg of my pants.  

I don't know what was going on, but I was not about to risk it any further and decided to get the hell out of there.  I stopped in at Bushmills, did not do the tour but did come back with a bottle of reserve whiskey only produced for and sold at the Distillery.  I just wanted to get out of there before I got stuck.  And I did.  I headed South through Antrim, bypassing Belfast.  I had no desire to go to the city whatsoever.  In fact, I don't think I have any desire to go back to Northern Ireland.  I would only maybe want to see the Antrim Coast, but I don't know if it's even worth that.

My destination point today was Slane.  Yesterday on my way through County Meath to Bushmills, I promised myself on the way back I would stay over in Slane.  There are many more historical sights I wanted to see that I missed on my way up in my haste to go North.  And, the weather was looking very sketchy so there was no way I was making it back to the cottage today.  

Before I went to Slane today, I took a slight detour over to Drogheda and ended up on an inlet of the Irish Sea.  I'd been North to the ocean, so why not East to the sea.  I found a rock beach littered with shells!  Whole shells, not all busted like at home.  I picked up a handful to take home while I spent a few minutes walking around in the sunshine near the water.  I needed the break after coming down from Northern Ireland and just wanted to get to the sunshine and the sea.

 

I ended up checking into the Conyngham Arms Hotel, right in the center of Slane Village. I had no reservation but they had rooms.  And what a room!  Gorgeous bed, two in fact!  A Nespresso machine, and even robes.  My room looks out over the main street of the village.  If you ever come to Slane, do yourself a favor and stay here.  Oh, and breakfast is included. 

Before dinner I was out walking around, walked down to the Boyne River, around the gate to Slane Castle, and took more photos of random things.  Snow was falling on and off, and I decided if I got stuck here, I would be totally fine with it.  I'm always experimenting with and learning about taking photos.  So, I always get some weird shots, some especially weird shots of the church bell tower tonight.  I have discovered I really like wandering around taking photos in the dark.  Yup, I'm weird.  As I was taking photos, the church bells rang to let me know it was 6pm. I stopped and paused to listen. It was perfect.


At dinner I had great conversation with one of the servers, Moira.  Dinner was incredible!  Grilled chicken breast with kale and garlic tiny potatoes in a red wine mushroom sauce. Delicious!! So when you travel alone, you are never really alone. Last night and this morning I had tons of conversation with the owners of Fin Mac Cool's guest house.  It's so fun to sit and listen to people.  I think their lives are so interesting and being with them enriches mine.

It's still pretty early, but I think I might turn in.  Lots of driving in the last few days.  And, there are quite a few more things I want to see before I go back to the cottage tomorrow.  Slane Hill, Battle of the Boyne, Kells, the tombs at Loughcrew....lots and lots and lots.  We'll see how far I get.  Luckily, breakfast is at half-seven tomorrow, so I can get an early start on my day.  I'm going to try and see if there's a way I can get in to see the Slane Castle.  Apparently it's become quite the concert venue.  If it's not open, maybe I'll just have to find another way in, through the woods or something.  Where there's a will, there's a way...

Tonight I'm in Newgrange

**This was supposed to post Monday night**

Right now I am safely tucked in to Newgrange Lodge (www.newgrangelodge.com), out in the common area doing my nightly update, in my slipper socks!  I'll be touring Newgrange (www.newgrange.com) in the morning, and then heading North to visit the Giant's Causeway and Bushmills Distillery tomorrow. I picked Newgrange Lodge because it was relatively inexpensive, 35 euros, includes breakfast and is about 200 meters from Newgrange. And it gets me to the Boyne valley, which has a lot of important historical sites. I am hoping to explore some of those tomorrow also, if I can get an early enough start.  

I've been having so much fun!  I'm navigating all on my own with my map, no GPS needed.  Now that I've spend so much time on the road, I can figure out fairly easily where I'm going.  I pick the next point, get there, and then decide what route to take.  Newgrange is not exactly straightforward to find, and I wanted to avoid dealing with Dublin.  And I managed all of that.  

The guy working the reception desk just did the sweetest thing.  He was going through to make himself a cup of tea, and asked if I'd like one.  I said yes, with a little cream and sugar.  Guess who's going to be up all night...but that's okay.  This morning I did get out and tour around Galway in the daylight, and found Charlie Byrne's bookstore (www.charliebyrne.com)  It's interesting how I keep finding these places I want to go without actually making a point to go there. I bought a book about Lady Gregory, and a book written by an Irish author, Edna O'Brien.  I also brought a few other books, so I have plenty of reading material.

 

I think I like Galway better at night.  Some weird guy wanted to take a picture of me with my camera in Eyre Square, and I told him no thanks.  I could just see him running off with it.  We would have had a fight then.  But, then I had a great conversation with the sweetest lady from Donegal.  Twice I had people ask me if I knew where something was, and I'm not even Irish!  My stay in Galway was a lot of fun though.  The hotel was very accommodating, breakfast delicious! I had a full, hot "mini breakfast" with one sausage, one rasher, one egg, small black and white pudding and one tiny tomato.  I stopped in at Goya's and got an Americano while I was out wandering the streets of Galway.  Delicious smelling bakery if ever there was one!


On the way to Newgrange, I decided to stop at Kilbeggan's Distillery (http://www.kilbegganwhiskey.com) and take a self-guided tour. I am definitely on the "Irish Whiskey Trail" now.  It was so cool! I was the only one in the building, and I got to take all the pictures I wanted, which you will see, on my Flickr feed.  I had lunch at their restaurant and the portion was so huge, I have half of it still sitting in the fridge here for dinner.  The coolest thing is that because I was driving, they gave me my complimentary tasting in a traveler, and gave me a keepsake glass.  You can find their whiskey in the States, under the Jim Beam portfolio.  And I just drank it while sitting here writing this post.  



Heading up North

It's 6am and I'm awake, so I might as well do the post now that I was going to do last night before I went to bed. I slept very well the last few nights.  I also had a shot of whiskey and some chocolate before bed the last two nights, so there could be a correlation there.

 I'm sitting up in my room in Bushmills, hoping to see the Giant's Causeway this morning.  A storm is on its' way, so I am going to head back down South sooner than later, after I tour the Bushmills Distillery.  It's only just up the road.  It took me 4 hours to get up here after leaving the Hill of Tara.  I met an old guy in a book shop there and he gave me his route suggestion to get North.  It took me through every small town you could imagine.  And then the police shut down the route, so I had to re-route myself.  The important thing is I made it.  

Yesterday morning I went and toured Newgrange.  We were able to go into the chamber inside.  It was pretty incredible that this tomb that was built over 5,000 years ago is still standing and intact.  Carvings and art adorn some of the rocks and these megaliths can weigh up to 5 tons!  Incredible. I'm glad there were only six of us, it's a pretty small space inside there.  And you could feel the sacredness.  I signed up for a lottery to be there during the Winter Solstice.  Above the entryway is a roof box where the light comes through.  On Winter Solstice, at approximately 2 mins. to 9am, it lights up the chamber with golden light for 17 minutes, and then the light goes away.  It employs a precision of engineering that is a little bit mind-baffling for me, especially since it was built so long ago.  I can't even conceptualize 5,000 years in my brain. The tomb may have been used for ceremonies, and they found ashes and bones, which indicates cremated remains were placed inside.  I was wandering around taking photos so my shuttle and the rest of the group left me.  I had my own private shuttle ride back.  Great experience!!!

 

I decided to go to the Hill of Tara before I headed North.  It was a bit of back-tracking, but I knew if I didn't go, I would regret it.  It was beautiful up there.  I had read about the Hill of Tara, the seat of the High Kings of Ireland.  There is a lot of historical significance, so of course I loved it.  I found the "Old Book Shop" and had a chat with Michael and bought some books.  I think I'm coming home from Ireland with books and whiskey.  Sounds about right.  

The rain is lashing at the windows, so I'm not sure how much visibility I will have for the Causeway, but we'll see.  I'm going to give it a shot.  I also learned a lot of the Game of Thrones was filmed around here, so I might visit a few of those places too.  Who knows!  I'm hoping my drive back down South will take much less time that the drive up did.  I'm going to stick to the main Motorways rather than going up the gut of the North.  

It was interesting transitioning from Ireland to Northern Ireland.  For one thing, the signs in English and Gaelic disappear.  The world goes from technicolor to a little bit of grey, and I could feel the loss of the richness and wildness of Ireland once I crossed the border.  It was the strangest thing.  Up here, the counties are British.  They don't even use the Euro, but use the British Pound.  I'll be glad to see the Causeway, but it feels like the magic was lost.  And it's a lot more congested too.  Driving part of it I felt like I could be home, not in Ireland.  I didn't believe I would feel the change so acutely, but I did.  

We'll see what today holds.  

 

Connemara

Today I headed up to Galway.  I was going to go back to the coast before I went to Galway, but Steph suggested I head to Connemara instead.  I ended up going through some of Yeats country, Joyce country, and found the bridge they used in "The Quiet Man".  All quite by accident.  

Connemara is beautiful!!! I can only imagine what it would be like in the summer and the hills backlit with a blue sky. Sheep dotting the hills more than the natural stones and an unexpected fjord! I ended up at Kylemore Abbey, which looked straight out of a movie.  Steph says Ireland is like a theme park, and she's right.  Everything here seems to be in technicolor and all of a sudden, around the next bend, something comes at you out of the blue.  You don't need to find history, it finds you.

The thing I was most struck with is that the hills in Connemara are criss-crossed with rock walls.  The hills in County Clare are gentle and rolling. These rise seemingly straight up from the ground, in golds and russets.  Incredible stark beauty where one mountain pass leads into another.  I am hopeful for better weather so I can go back.

Eventually the rain got so bad today I gave up and went back into Galway.  I managed to locate my hotel fairly easily, got my room keys and the car parked.  I decided to eat downstairs in the hotel, because I didn't want to walk and have to find somewhere.  It was delicious!  In honor of my journey, I had Connemara lamb shank.  So good!!!

I went out for a walk after dinner, ended up in a pub with a glass of Guinness listening to some trad music.  The city is full of bars and restaurants and cobblestone streets, with a pedestrian-only area.  I'm staying right by Eyre Square, in the center of town.  I desperately wanted some photos at night, so back to the hotel I went and grabbed my camera.

I ended up at a different bar this time, enjoying another glass of Guinness listening to a band cover some old songs (We Are Family) and new songs (Lucky by Daft Punk).  I finished my glass and headed back to the hotel.  I don't usually do too many full pints because those knock me out and I need to have my wits about me in unfamiliar surroundings.  Can't wait to get up in the morning and wander around in the daylight.  Also lots of shopping.  

After I finish up wandering in the morning, I'm headed off to Newgrange to stay and visit the tombs there.  Oh, and I might sneak in a visit to a distillery on the way over.  We'll see what happens!  Onto more adventuring tomorrow.  

Cliffs of Moher

Guys- I gotta tell you, I'm wiped out! I spent the afternoon walking to the southern most point on the cliffs that I could get to.  I didn't intend for it to be that way.  I was going to go up, take a few pictures, and then head down the coast to Loop Head.  But I never made it that far.  You can see in my photos how my journey progresses.  You can see the new photos of the cliffs here:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/128803341@N02/

These photos are unedited, except for what I did with the camera.  I ended up making it out to the watch tower, as I like to call it.  I have no idea how far it is.  And I'm terrible with distances when I try to figure it out anyway.  But it took me a good 3 hours I'd say, roundtrip.  Keep in mind I am not the fastest walker and stopped every few feet for photos. 

And imagine walking on cliff edges hundreds of feet above the Atlantic.  There was a point where I almost turned back, because I do have a little fear of heights.  But I kept going, one step at a time.  And you know what?  I was okay.  On the way back, walking close to the edge was nothing.  Not that I would be foolish, of course, but I was proud of myself.  

I've managed to cook myself dinner and am having my now nightly Guinness.  Tomorrow I'm setting off on a real road trip.  Slightly north to Galway for the night, then over to Newgrange, up to Bushmills, down to Donegal....and then I'm not sure.  I won't be back to the cottage until Thursday or Friday.  I really want to see the Giant's Causeway and visit the tombs at Newgrange, so I have to book some nights somewhere.  I'm looking forward to it, new adventures.  

Today's walk was so good.  So invigorating to be out in the bracing wind and weather.  No rain though, which was awesome!! Plenty of mud and muck, as there is EVERYWHERE in Ireland if you are not on the tarmac (pavement).  I can't believe my trip to Ireland is now past the half-way point.  I'm sad about it and I don't want to think about it, so I'm not going to.  

I might drive out to Loop Head tomorrow morning and then go up to Galway. Who knows.  I've gotten the hang of driving here just fine, though sometimes I still get a little confused with roundabouts.  But they seem more effective than traffic lights.  Who knows!  Happy Saturday my state-side friends!

Celtic crosses and medieval banquets.

Today I had a very busy day.  I spent most of the morning burning things.  You name it, I can burn it in the stove.  Cooked food, paper products, whatever.  And it's reduced to a small pile of ash which I then put in a bucket and Steph dumps somewhere in her yard.  

And then I went in to Tulla.  This afternoon was GORGE0US, as you will see from the photos.  I had been dying to get up to the cemetery to take some photos and boy did I.  I was in awe at the headstones.  I hoped I was not being sacrilegious by traipsing through the cemetery to get better shots. It was hard to miss stepping on graves, they took up a lot of space.  The roofless church and old headstones gave me lots of fodder for pictures.  So beautiful I was dying.


I finished up at the cemetery and took care of some errands in town.  I went in to the Fruit/Veg store and had a long conversation with the guy behind the counter.  Then I went to the butcher, Steph suggested I go get some of his beef, so I came out with a few sirloin steaks.  I got some groceries and stopped by the fuel depot on my way out of town to get some more fuel for the fire.

The medieval banquet was scheduled at 5:30, so Steph suggested I stop in at Quin to see the Abbey on my way.  And so I did that too.  Another roofless stone building with lots of graves.  I love them. I met a lady in the cemetery who told me I should ask someone about seeing the inside.  Someone or other had a key to it, but she wasn't sure who might have it.  The Abbey too was gorgeous, and the drive to Quin also took me by Knappogue Castle, but that is closed for the season.  

I managed to take every road to get to Bunratty except for the actual road I needed to take.  4th time is a charm.  But, I made it, with time to spare.  At the banquet I was greeted by a man and woman in medieval costume, and the whole evening was charming.  We had a reception upstairs in the great hall, where they served us delicious honey mead in small ceramic cups.  Delicious.  A man and a woman were playing a fiddle and a harp in the middle of the hall.  

We were given a brief history of the castle, and then led downstairs to the banquet.  I sat next to a mother/daughter from Seattle and they were great all evening.  We started with a delicious soup, followed by a platter of spareribs, a quarter chicken with roasted vegetables and potatoes and some kind of dessert known as "lovers kisses".  He elected one of the couples the Earl and his Lady for the night, and another poor man got thrown in the dungeon.  


The servers also were brilliant singers, each one of them.  They put on a good half-hour of entertainment after the meal, which was wonderful.  Really beautiful voices.  We ate only with steak knives, no silverware.  It was rather fun, I didn't mind.  It was refreshing to just eat with your hands.  It was a lovely, charming evening, and I would recommend going to the dinner.  

At the end of the night, they sent us downstairs for coffee.  I ended up chatting with the most adorable Irish couple who lived just a few miles from the Castle, and had won tickets to come.  They thought it was quite good as well.  Both the mother/daughter and the older couple recommended visiting Loop Head, in addition to the Cliffs of Moher.  So I think that might be my plan tomorrow.  We'll see.  

Driving on the left

I can proudly say I learned another skill today.  Because today was the day.  I would finally get my car!  I was excited and nervous all at the same time.  Really, picking up the car was no issue, and I adjusted to driving on the other side of the road on the other side of the car pretty well.  Steph took me back to the airport this morning to get the car and away she went and away I went.  She suggested I stop at Bunratty Castle, since I had been there before, to have a bite to eat at Durty Nelly's and let the nerves out before continuing on, and so I did.  

 I managed to get myself from the Shannon Airport to the Castle, only having one mishap where I drove too far and had to get off the motorway about 5km down and come back around.  No harm done.  I decided if I ended up in Limerick, it would be fine.  But I didn't.  I made my way back, got to Durty Nelly's, and had a "glass" of Guinness, or a half-pint, and some beef stew for lunch.  Quite delicious!  Durty Nelly's has been around since 1620, and it's just right across the street from Bunratty Castle.  Tomorrow night I'm going back to Bunratty for the medieval dinner.  

So now, I will have been to Bunratty Castle three times.  I think that's enough.  Before I left home, I purchased a ticket for the Castle & Folk Village, so I decided to go today since it was a nice afternoon.  It was awesome because I had the castle mostly to myself!!  I had seen a little bit of it on Saturday, but wanted to come back and explore and get photos.  

If you want a good work out, try going up and down several sets of steep, stone castle stairs, at almost a straight up vertical angle.  There were a few times where I tripped, or my foot didn't quite catch the whole stair.  Thousands of feet have trod those stone steps.  I had visions of missing a step and ending up with some broken bones so I proceeded very, very carefully. Luckily, no injuries here.

 

I took loads and load and loads of pictures today!  Not just the castle, but all over the village.  There's a small town you can tour around and cottages as well.  Mostly everything in the town was closed, but many of the buildings were open for viewing.  I ended up going all the way to the furthest end and found a church and a paddock near Bunratty House where I came face to face with a stag!  A small one, but he looked at me, and I looked at him, both in equal surprise!  He was gorgeous.  

 

I have learned something about myself.  If there is a place I am not supposed to go but the door is open, I'll go, just to see what I can see.  I went around to the front of Bunratty House, even though the sign was posted and said the house was closed.  In the church, because no one was there, I went beyond the rope and actually stood at the altar and in the preacher's "box", for lack of a better word.  Of course I opened the piano and then saw the note that said, "please don't touch".  I don't generally obey rules very well if there's something I want more.

 

 I toured around for 2-3 hours, just enjoying the sunshine.  High point of my day was when someone asked me if I was with the "students abroad" group.  Ha!  I still look like a college student.  Luckily I wasn't, because as soon as I got done touring the castle 2 busloads showed up!  I was lucky to have the castle mostly to myself, with only a few other people.  Perfect timing.  

I saw so many great rooms at the castle.  The South Solar was my favorite.  Beautiful design on the ceiling, long table facing the afternoon sun.  It felt like a library to me.  There was the North Solar, Captain's Quarters, Castle Basement, the Dungeon, Earl's Pantry, Earl's Private Chapel, the Great Hall...I loved every minute of it and felt so at home!  I've got tons of pictures I'll be posting, so be sure to check them out.  


Yesterday was fairly quiet, except for Steph took me on a walk and showed me a stone circle some of her neighbors erected on their land.  There was something sacred about it.  I guess someone came in and divined ley lines and told them how to lay it out.  I am sure in times past there had been one there as well.  It was cool because they did it the old way, by hand.  They used no machinery to erect the stones.  Only a bunch of guys with ropes.  Incredible!!  


Tomorrow I'm going back over to Feakle and Tulla, the nearest towns to me, in the morning.  And then on my way to dinner, I'm going to stop at Quin, they've got an Abbey there.  Steph is always giving me good recommendations on how to spend my time.  I think on Friday I'm going to take a trip to the Cliffs of Moher and maybe see the Burren.  It depends on how much time I want to spend where.  The days are getting ever so slightly longer, so that's good.

Over the weekend, I may go to Galway for a day, or drive over to Tullamore and take a tour of the whiskey distillery there.  On Monday I think I'm going to head East over to Newgrange in County Meath, and then up to the Giant's Causeway and the Bushmills Distillery on Tuesday.  I'm fairly tempted to spring for it and stay the night here in Bushmills (www.bushmillsinn.com).  The inn is very luxurious.  The other plus is it's only a 10-min walk to the distillery.  I'm doing my best not to do too many overnight trips because I already have such a great place to stay.  But, the trip to Northern Ireland can't be helped, especially on limited daylight.

I wish I could put you all in my pocket and have you here with me.  I love Ireland.  It is magical and mysterious and wild and tame all at the same time.  The people are hearty and vibrant, very kind.  I feel completely safe traveling around on my own, and quite honestly never feel lonely.  It's been such a great trip so far.  Now if I can just figure out how to open the gas tank door on the car....

Sixmilebridge...and the SEAHAWKS!!!

Today is an in day.  And when I say in, I mean cozied up in the daybed next to the fire in.  It's cold outside, and the sky is the kind of white-gray that tells me no sun is getting through.  The only reasons I left the cottage were 1.) to get more fuel for the fire from the shed.  and 2.) to go see Steph's studio, view her work and purchase one of her gorgeous shawls!  She does incredibly delicate work, and you can view it here:  www.saolreirishknit.com

 

Yesterday (Sunday) was a gorgeous day! I decided to go back to Sixmilebridge around 2pm for some more music with Steph and her friends.  The skies were blue, and it was cold and clear.  

Various acts were playing in different pubs around town, so you'd bounce from one to the other to catch different groups.  The first act we caught, The Eskies (www.theeskies.com), were so good!  They were playing at The Olde House in Sixmilebridge.  Seated on small stools against the wall, the pub eventually filled while they were playing, many people standing and sitting on the floor in front of the band.

They were rowdy and bawdy and everything you could hope for from an Irish band.  Interestingly, they played a lot of CCR, some Statler Brothers and the Chris Isaak song, "Wicked Game".  So good!!! I loved their spirit and absolute musicianship.  They interacted a lot with the crowd, yelling and laughing back and forth.  Just good fun.  

We then went on to The Duck Inn to see Steph's friend Rob and the band he's in play again.  Very good as well!  Rob plays "the bones", as well as a washboard he wears over his shoulders and plays with spoons.  So talented!  

After we got home, I cooked some dinner and did some research on what I want to do and where I want to go when I get the car this week.  The Seahawks were playing in the NFC Championship game and I was trying to stream it live with no success; however, I was able to stream the audio live and tuned in to the game. 

Oy!!  Who knew it would go like this.  So, after the fifth and last turnover, I quit the live audio feed.  I couldn't listen anymore. But then NFL Mobile notified me the Seahawks scored a touchdown.  I decided then and there I would listen, however bad it was, and finish out the game.  And I am so glad I did!  All I can say is, wow, what a finish!  Crazy.  

Tomorrow I'm not sure what I'll be up to.  Probably will be itching for a walk as I did not get out today.  There is one more loop I want to do around here before I start roaming the greater Irish countryside with the car on Wednesday.  This has been such a perfect experience, I could not be happier. Steph is a marvelous host and this part of the country is beautiful.  

This country is seeping into the marrow of my soul.  The music and the people. I welcome the sounds of the cattle lowing, the smell of the farm animals as I'm taking my walks.  The simple pleasure of climbing down from the loft every morning and building a fire, or cooking up a simple but hearty meal for myself.  I am unearthing new pieces of me.  I've learned that all I need to succeed is in me.  Not just me, but all of us!  And if you have a dream, go for it.  You won't regret it, I promise you.  

Shannonside Winter Music Day

This afternoon Steph took me over to Shannonside Winter Music Day.  From noon- 5pm, they had several groups playing in several different venues around Bunratty Castle (http://www.shannonheritage.com/BunrattyCastleAndFolkPark/).  My first trip to a real castle.  I got only a very few photos, and those with my phone.  I will be going back on Thursday night for the medieval dinner, and then the next morning to the Folk Park.  

Steph's friend Rob played in The Boat Band (UK) first, so we went and listened in on them.  They played in the castle basement.  We wandered up and through the great hall, and then up and up and up these tight, tiny circular stone staircases and came out on one of the turrets.  After a few photos, we headed back down to hear some progressive trad music from Cross Harbour UK. They were very good too!

We caught a little bit of the Flamenco duo, Cintron Bros Flamenco USA.  There were musicians from Ireland, the UK and the US.  I took a few shots of The Golden Star Morris Dancers UK, dancing outside the main entrance of the castle.  The last band we listened to, JigJam, is a Celtrgrass band.  Yes, Celtic bluegrass.  Playing guitars, banjos, fiddles (large and small) they were my fave of the day!  I wanted to get their CD, but Steph wanted to beat the traffic so we headed out.  Good news - I can get them online (https://www.facebook.com/jigjamlive) and get their album via iTunes.

Steph and I talked about heading back into Sixmilebridge tonight to catch some more music, but, it is a fair drive, so we decided to wait and go back to listen tomorrow.  So, here I am eating pork chops, potatoes and having a pint of Guinness by the fire.  

After talking to some locals today, and Steph, about weather and plans with the car, I decided to cancel any and all reservations I had, and take the pressure off myself.  I want to get to Norther Ireland, but, weather could be a factor.  And there is so much to do here, in and around County Clare.  I cannot wait to get back to the castle an take more photos, when it's maybe a little quieter.  I want to explore the village of Sixmilebridge.  Get to the Cliffs of Moher, and the Burren.  Maybe spend a night in Galway.  I've got two full weeks with the car, so I am excited about that.  More adventures await!